remontoire d'égalité</i> </a>– an all but forgotten constant force mechanism that acts as a transmission system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and escapement; and which was originally invented (in watches) by John Harrison, for his marine chronometers. The <i>remontoire</i> would soon go on to be found in a handful of other <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-zeitwerk-review/" target=\"_blank\">WIS-approved wristwatches like the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk</a>, though, unlike Lange, Journe would never claim his tourbillon featured a constant force <i>escapement</i>. The <i>remontoire</i> is not a constant force escapement per se (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-girard-perregaux-constant-force-escapement-explained/" target=\"_blank\">for that, visit this detailed look at this Girard-Perregaux)</a>, but it does ensure that the energy reaching the escapement stays the same through the entire power reserve of the movement. Chronometry, all the way back to the early 1980s, has been at the core of what F.P. Journe does. But, he also wants his creations to have emotion and beauty, thus his constant pursuit of the tourbillon.</p>\n<p>The reference T was produced until the end of 2003. The cases are predominantly made of platinum, but they may also be seen in rose gold. The movements are brass and dials can be found in yellow, pink, and white gold. All cases are 38mm, except for those of the limited edition ruthenium pieces that we will discuss below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tourbillon Souverain With Natural Dead Seconds (Reference TN) – 2003-Present"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da45b8ad-9d5f-47a3-85db-950edb5fffcb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the Reference T was indeed Journe's inaugural and most important wristwatch to date – keep in mind, between the launch of the T and the \"TN\" (for \"Tourbillon Nouveau\") in April 2004, Journe had launched six other watches, including the revolutionary Chronomètre à Résonance. Six watches in four and a half years, and yet the new Tourbillon was hardly the dial tweak that the uninitiated might believe it to be. In fact, Journe says the only thing that remained in the TN from the T was the tourbillon cage – everything else was redesigned and re-engineered.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5687dfff-313c-4de7-a466-5634c5ad3c24"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case here is either 38mm or 40mm, though you seldom see them in the smaller size. The movement is gold (instead of brass like the T) and the caliber number is 1403. The entire watch remains just 9.9mm thick and the biggest aesthetic changes you'll see here are that there is now just one aperture on the dial, for the large tourbillon cage. The small aperture, previously where one would see the <i>remontoir d'égalité</i> working its magic, has been covered with a natural dead-beat seconds display – ever the sign of a truly chronometrically focused timepiece. The power reserve indicator is now angled towards the center of the dial as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a491081f-9590-47b7-80cb-7c7f041275ad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From the rear, the rose gold caliber is more appealing to the eye than the brass caliber found in the T. What makes the TN interesting is that it has remained unchanged for the better part of 13 years now. And, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-fp-journe-chronomtre-souverain-octa-lune-and-octa-reserve-now-with-solid-gold-dials-live-pics-full-specs-official-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">ever since F.P. Journe acquired its own dial maker outside Geneva,</a> you will find TNs with myriad interesting dial choices. This ranges from the traditional gold dials to the black label dial seen above to the engraved dial seen below to the \"Ferrari red\" dial seen here and even to an incredible green jade dial. Phew.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e4c31fcc-8c7a-4634-beb3-88ec13c175f2","e1cbd917-8f28-4587-922b-4507d08808c3"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Few numbers are given on these special dial tourbillons, and while the traditional white and rose gold dials are perhaps the least interesting to connoisseurs, they are undeniably beautiful and pleasing to the eye.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reference TN is still in production, though F.P. Journe says he is currently working on a new iteration. In summary, the cases are predominantly made of platinum (but they may also be seen in rose gold), the movements are always rose gold, there is a huge variety of dials beyond the standard gold options, and the vast majority of TNs are 40mm in diameter.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tourbillon Titanium (Reference TT) – 2008"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8d42920e-b567-40e3-b6b8-74c7a838709c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 2007, Journe celebrated the third anniversary of his first boutique (Tokyo) with the first limited edition of the TN. That said, this watch is special and different from all other TNs because it received its own reference – reference TT. The entire watch was made of titanium, and this even included the tourbillon cage. Just 20 pieces were produced in total, and five were given to each of his four boutiques around the world: Tokyo, Hong Kong, Geneva, and Boca Raton. Each TT has the name of the boutique from which it was sold engraved on the case back. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tourbillon Historique (Reference T30) – 2013"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c5373c42-5151-421e-ae6a-3a2bdf842e2c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the TN remains in production, Journe has made a few limited edition tourbillon wristwatches as well. First up is the reference T30 or \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-fp-journe-historical-anniversary-tourbillon-and-the-pocket-watch-that-inspired-it-live-pics-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">Tourbillon Historique</a>.\" Here I will kindly ask you to refer to the above description of a young Mr. Journe's very first watch – and then have a look here. You will notice a striking similarity between the two in terms of both dial and movement aesthetics. This is because this 99 piece limited edition was created as an homage to the very first Journe watch on its 30th birthday.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["406b8ca7-c9e7-4262-b959-a9d0f9aca174"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case is made of silver and gold, with a hinged <i>guilloché</i> caseback. The hands are blued steel, Breguet style, and everything else about the watch, at least aesthetically, is true to the original Journe pocketwatch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e9dc4086-3566-4725-8298-af1f27852f97"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the half-hunter caseback you will find a truly stunning one-minute tourbillon that is, to me, one of the most beautiful calibers in the world. It looks like nothing else and the first time you see it, it's truly staggering.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The T30 was produced in a series of 99 pieces sold directly to F.P. Journe's most loyal clients. The price was $99,000 at launch, which, according to Francois-Paul himself, was something of a gift to his supporters. The cost of the current Tourbillon Souverain is considerably higher, and he wanted to do something special for his best clients. Each T30 is 40mm in diameter and the movement is gilt brass.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Anniversary Tourbillon (Reference T10) – 2013"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3fd8fc6b-bbe6-4553-8cbe-a6ebf9220ad8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Launched the same year as the T30 was an even rarer tourbillon called the Anniversary Tourbillon, or \"T10.\" Called the \"T10\" because 2013 commemorated both a decade of Journe's first boutique (Tokyo) and the opening of his tenth worldwide (Beirut), the watch is very similar in design to the T30. Here, however, the case is platinum, the dial black and white, and the caliber rose gold instead of brass.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["320cfa26-b821-4b56-8e4d-895137347311"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just 10 of these pieces were made, and, according to Journe, each boutique was asked to nominate three of its best clients for a total of 30 qualified buyers. From there, 10 were selected to purchase the watches. The retail price when new was roughly $130,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Toubillon Souverain Bleu For Only Watch (Reference TB) – 2015"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35019d42-8973-4fcc-9228-05f18124ed36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While all of the Journe tourbillons we have mentioned so far are quite rare by virtue of being a completely hand-made Swiss tourbillon from a manufacture that produces fewer than 900 watches per year, none can call itself unique – with the exception of Journe's very first watch from 1983, of course. This special piece, dubbed <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-f-p-journe-tourbillon-souverain-bleu-a-unique-tantalum-cased-watch-for-only-watch-2015/" target=\"_blank\">the Tourbillon Souverain Bleu</a>, is very much a reference TN, only a little bit more too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4ed7e218-2904-4a56-98b8-b96e05b1ddf3","add14b71-b90c-4756-9452-59ba73025b76"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This actually unique watch features the movement of the TN but with a one-off tantalum case and blue dial, both borrowed <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-on-three-manual-dress-watch/" target=\"_blank\">from the fan-favorite Chronomètre Bleu</a>. The watch is no more complicated than that, but it looks absolutely stunning. This, coupled with the fact that Only Watch is a charitable sale, makes for a truly valuable watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3e4642fb-2314-4ead-b25e-2fca9a7cfdcd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The TB was sold via Phillips at Only Watch in November 2015 for a whopping 550,000 CHF (approximately $565,000 at time of publishing). The watch was loaned to us specially for this shoot by its owner, world-class collector and friend to all watch lovers Mr. Claude Sfeir. It should be noted that Mr. Sfeir is also the man behind the F.P. Journe boutique in Beirut, and undoubtedly one of Journe's most ardent supporters. This unique tourbillon could not be in better hands.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tourbillon Acier (Steel Set) – 2015"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["46c4a098-beb1-43ab-8bd4-69537daeea3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The year 2015 saw one more very special Journe tourbillon hit the market, but it hit the market with four friends. F.P. Journe decided to retire the beloved 38mm case that had made its watches so well-loved, and to celebrate this he released the so-called \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/FP-Journe-38mm-Steel-Set/" target=\"_blank\">steel set</a>.\" Essentially Journe revived a few discontinued models and cased them in stainless steel. Steel is certainly attractive to collectors, and up until this point, it has been reserved only for Journe's most expensive watches – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fp-journe-grande-sonnerie-video/" target=\"_blank\">the chiming watches</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c87d39e6-9efe-426a-b32a-3c597cdb01dc","cc65600e-28f1-418e-88a5-a5a6a7b1316a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the five watches from the set is indeed a reference T. What make this one special besides the yellow gold dial and steel case is that the reference T had never been produced with a rose gold movement before, while all other watches in the set had. Because of this, and for the very obvious reason that it is a tourbillon, this watch seems to have risen above the others in terms of collectability and importance. Now, the steel tourbillon was not available on its own, so the cost of this watch along with the four others was a whopping $308,200 when it was released.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Collecting F.P. Journe Tourbillons "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6076de43-73de-4004-9989-a665b8042f2a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We typically dedicate these Reference Points segments to highly collectible product families that have a nuanced production run with great historical importance. And while the Journe tourbillon is a relative baby to the other recipients of such treatment, I believe that all these traits are indeed present in the Journe tourbillon family. I have no doubts about it, in fact.</p>\n<p>This is a wide range of similar looking watches that spans the course of a two decades (or more, if you consider the pre-Montres Journe watches). I also believe that F.P. Journe tourbillons are still in their infancy in terms of appreciation by consumers, and maybe even in terms of their long term value. Consider that in March 2011 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/collecting-history-the-fp-journe-tourbillon-souverain/" target=\"_blank\">we published an open letter from a collector citing the historical importance of the early Journe tourbillons</a> – and prices haven't really changed much since then if you look at the early reference T watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["40d46157-6d54-41f3-bec5-8cb37bbdbb91","21d35844-ee0d-47b6-ab6f-c355c694370f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What we have seen, however, is an explosion of interest in the special edition and hyper early watches. Consider that the Tourbillon Souverain Bleu, at 550,000 CHF, was behind only a game-worn Richard Mille tourbillon and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/steel-patek-at-only-watch-becomes-the-highest-priced-wristwatch-of-all-time/" target=\"_blank\">the most expensive wristwatch in history</a> in terms of final price at Only Watch 2015. The purple dial TN that you see above is another unique piece, this one donated to Action Innocence<i>,</i> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/collectible-FP-Journe-watches/" target=\"_blank\">it sold for 350,000 CHF in May of 2015</a>. </p>\n<p>For some more context, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/FP-JOURNE/CH080515/112/" target=\"_blank\">Souscription 9/20 sold at auction in November of 2015 for 269,000 CHF</a>, while the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/FP-JOURNE/CH080116/158?fromSearch=journe&searchPage=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">Souscription 19/20 sold for 161,000 CHF in May of 2016</a> (the watch is in considerably worse condition). Still, both very strong results for watches that retailed for a literal fraction of that when new – around 29,000 CHF, in case you want to kick yourself for not picking one up back then. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["89ced9ef-5e56-40a5-bd9b-273ca87ec582","a15774fd-f5ea-423f-864e-99e429637702"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Prices for, and long term interest in, current production watches are hard to judge for obvious reasons, but if we examine the just the limited edition and original tourbillons, we see what could be really strong plays. So far, none of the 10 T10 tourbillons have appeared publicly. That says something in itself, considering <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-grand-master-chime-review/" target=\"_blank\">we've even heard of a Grandmaster Chime (one of six) being shopped around</a>. We have certainly seen a few T30 Tourbillons on the market, but that's a run of 99 pieces. And, right now, we see them listed between $105,000 and $120,000 – that's above retail. Even if they are selling for high 90s, that is tremendous value retention for a modern watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d29667c3-17be-4fb8-9633-70a2435f9441"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what's left to collect? To me, the fun in collecting Journe tourbillons is centered around the reference T watches because they are all so similar, and yet so different. Let's assume you will not be able to purchase one of the two prototype wristwatches, or one of the 20 Souscription watches – you are still left with a wide and varied range of watches over which you can truly obsess. </p>\n<p>The easiest collectible reference T to spot is the ruthenium limited edition. The caliber here is the 1483 with open <i>remontoire</i> at 6 o'clock, but the look is very different. First of all, the case diameter is 40mm. These are the only reference T watches in this size. You then have a brass movement and a gold dial both coated in ruthenium, which provides a beautiful, rich grey color that changes dramatically in different lighting. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2279249b-b894-4750-9f36-eef48cfcae4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are 99 examples of the ruthenium edition tourbillon. They were produced in 2001 and, to many, they're the next most desirable Journe tourbillon after a super early example of a T. They're rare, but that's not to say they aren't out there – they are, for now. We see these watches trade roughly around $100,000 – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/fp-journe-a-fine-platinum-limited-edition-6003313-details.aspx/" target=\"_blank\">and in fact Christie's sold the very first example for $100,000 in June 2016</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ruthenium tourbillons aside, there are a few different generations of early watches. These are designated by subtle differences in printing and small, all-but-hidden traits that few would ever recognize on their own. First, it's important to note that dating Journe tourbillons is quite easy. On the case back you see \"xxx/yy.\" Here the x represents the serial number of the watch and the y represents the year. So if you see a tourbillon with \"202/01T\" engraved on the back, you know this is the 202nd tourbillon made, and it was produced in 2001. It's just that simple. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Four Generations Of First Series Tourbillons"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now to define the four generations of reference T watches. The differences are highlighted below:</p>\n<p><strong>First Generation:</strong> Souscription series with only \"Invenit et Fecit / F.P. Journe\" written on dial and a rounded <i>remontoire</i> cock.</p>\n<p><strong>Second Generation:</strong> First production reference Ts with \"Remontoir d'Egalite\" printed at 12 o'clock and rounded <i>remontoire</i> cock.</p>\n<p><strong>Third Generation:</strong> The <i>remontoire</i> cock is flat instead of rounded – this is the easiest tell. The dial screws here remain quite large.</p>\n<p><strong>Fourth Generation: </strong>Printing becomes thicker and dial screws become smaller.</p>\n<p>It sounds trivial, and it is, but this is what makes watch collecting so fun. My colleague, the ever insightful SJX, has produced <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://watchesbysjx.com/2016/06/a-collectors-guide-to-the-original-f-p-journe-tourbillon.html/" target=\"_blank\">a wonderful and detailed guide on just these first edition watches. I highly recommend you check it out.</a></p>\n<p>Here's a test for you – which series is the tourbillon below?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8d8baeb3-a4ca-429f-a6a4-22e6f8df2e5f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you said third, you'd be correct. You have the flat <i>remontoire</i> cock but still the larger dial screws. The serial number on this watch is \"100/01T\" indicating is the 100th tourbillon produced, and it was made in 2001. Here are examples of all four generations in a row so you can see the differences – note that the second generation watch has a white gold dial and was photographed at an angle, thus the reflective look.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["05d3d9e3-b0ff-4160-91f3-31962a3bdc7a","4b4e3003-41d7-4881-ba76-4f4d9144f12a"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["203ef716-9a55-4377-9343-5863b89e9beb","317dfd0f-6dc3-48a3-b0ce-5bf9ce1679b9"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As you might expect, the earlier the watch, the more difficult it is to find.<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://watchesbysjx.com/2016/06/a-collectors-guide-to-the-original-f-p-journe-tourbillon.html/" target=\"_blank\"> SJX has provided some good information on numbering</a> – with 1-20 obviously being Souscription watches (Series 1), but his article states that by watch number 37, we are already on to generation three. This would mean that, in fact, the second generation dial is rarer than the Souscription pieces. I can say that in researching this story and pulling images, I was able to find stock photos of the Souscription piece number 20/20 via Antiquorum's database, but I was not able to find any photos of a second generation watch there. Fourth generation watches are by far the most common and can be had for relatively little money (comparatively speaking). Still, when you consider that there are roughly only 350 reference T watches, period, and that includes the 99 ruthenium pieces, you have to wonder how long these watches will remain sellable in the $80,000 to $90,000 range. No matter the generation, a reference T watch is, to me, a fantastic piece of high-end watchmaking that wears wonderfully and offers a real sense of occasion and emotion to its owner. By the way, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Talking-Watches-With-William-Massena/" target=\"_blank\">don't you have a whole new appreciation for the third generation watch with rose gold dial that William Massena showed us</a>?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b597d6c7-8d4e-4bb0-bf30-b6bf09c169d4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As always, the nature of independent and hand-made watches means that nothing is an exact science. And, like I mentioned above, appreciation for Journe watches and his magnum opus in his tourbillon wristwatch is still in early days. As our own appreciation of his work expands, I fully expect there to be more information made available to us as a collecting community. I will do my best to keep this article up to date as this happens.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Quick Reference Guide"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1fdd42b5-73ca-47f2-8e36-444b0f3ec2b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here is a quick reference guide for all F.P. Journe tourbillons. This should be of great assistance as you begin your own pursuit and study of these fantastic watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Special Thanks And Credits"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This story and video would not have been possible without the help of Mr. Pierre Halimi of Montres Journe, America, Paul Lerner of Optimist Consulting, and, of course, Mr. Francois-Paul Journe himself. Additional credits are due to the wonderful self-published book <i>F.P. Journe: The First 30 Years</i> by Kiran Shekar (a must-read if you don't have a copy), <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://watchesbysjx.com/2016/06/a-collectors-guide-to-the-original-f-p-journe-tourbillon.html/" target=\"_blank\">SJX's great post on the early dial differences</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=7073976&rid=12189#msg_7073976\" target=\"_blank\">Felipe Jordao's post here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Further Reading And Viewing On F.P. Journe"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9ccbe6d8-fa62-4309-a73a-3e07aebcb599"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>F.P. Journe is a small brand, producing just some 900 pieces per year. But that doesn't mean you can't get your hands on them – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.fpjourne.com/eu/fpj-monde-en.html/" target=\"_blank\">click here to see what Journe watches are sold today</a>. Additionally, we have produced a handful of original features and videos on the magic that is Journe and we encourage you to look back at them. Click on the titles below for an even deeper look into the world of F.P. Journe.</p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fp-journe-grande-sonnerie-video/" target=\"_blank\">Inside The Manufacture: Making F.P. Journe's Most Complicated Watch</a> / <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-fp-journe-chronometre-optimum/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum, Explained</a> / <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-on-three-manual-dress-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Three On Three: Comparing In-House, Manually Wound Watches Under $20,000 (Featuring The Chronomètre Bleu)</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"121fb4d0-c2fa-42e8-9bc6-907d51970e4b","container_id":3344,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1467328801704-sevbwl2fikgmmwo2-6d0291651aa5c14fdd7bc78d81a1f6bb/_hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-02-20T20:30:10.741-05:00","updated_at":"2017-04-22T16:45:09.638-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1467328801704-sevbwl2fikgmmwo2-6d0291651aa5c14fdd7bc78d81a1f6bb/_hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":17,"slug":"reference_points","name":"Reference Points","description":"Extensive historical research on the lineage of important vintage watches.","sort_order":9,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.165-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.490-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-fp-journe-tourbillon","full_title":"Reference Points: The Complete History Of The F.P. Journe Tourbillon, As Told By Francois-Paul Journe Himself","tags":[]},{"id":2774,"slug":"understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional","column_slug":"reference_points","title":"Understanding The Omega Speedmaster","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2015-11-30T09:04:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2015-10-30T17:21:31.000-04:00","updated_at":"2022-01-07T15:40:15.555-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":5,"lede":"<p>For the third installment of Reference Points, we examine the legendary Omega Speedmaster, a watch that has become a brand unto itself over the last 60 years.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667535001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":2196,"hero_image_url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/hero_image/16c6519b2c335ddc1355e00847a4ea76","hero_homepage_image_url":"","view_count":515887,"public_token":"e850716ac5589435612afe1208014c03","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"30300767-32d4-44c2-be19-603721212b54","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Welcome to the third installment of Reference Points, our series that takes an exhaustive look at some of the most important families of timepieces in history (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-entire-lineage-of-patek-philippe-perpetual/" target=\"_blank\">Episode 1 featured the entire collection of perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona/" target=\"_blank\">E</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona/" target=\"_blank\">pisode 2 featured the Rolex Paul Newman Daytona</a>). In this episode, we examine the legendary Omega Speedmaster, a watch that has become a brand unto itself over the last 50 years. We'll examine the origins of the Speedmaster, its progression into the \"space watch\" that we know today, and how it has evolved over the years.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4cf04d45-3694-47e0-961f-e223e3405420"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I will begin by pointing out what this is <i>not</i>. This is not a look at <i>every</i> watch to wear the Speedmaster name, but rather those that we would classify as true \"moon watches\" – meaning those with a manually wound movement from Lemania, three registers, and no date. Over the years, Omega has produced hundreds of offshoot watches, but for purity's sake (and brevity's, for that matter), we will focus on the purest of all Speedmasters here. Further, this is not a look at <i>how</i> the Speedmaster made it to space, but rather how to examine individual references to know what they should look like. Let's get down to it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Origins Of The Omega Speedmaster – For Men Who Reckon Time In Seconds"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bca2f838-fb1a-4e66-9963-8d14e19cd423"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very first thing that one must understand about the Speedmaster is that in 1957 when it was launched, chronographs made up a very, very small percentage of watch sales – for all brands. A chronograph, or a watch with \"stop watch\" functionality, whether it be from Omega, Heuer, Rolex, Vacheron, or Patek Philippe, would be a purpose-built tool designed to be used by an engineer, a technician, a doctor, or a sportsman of some kind. The chronograph for the casual timepiece wearer was not a concept that would develop until some years later – really into the 1970s – and we have explored how that transition took place with the help of the Jack Heuer and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ode-to-smoke/" target=\"_blank\">number three cigarette in America here.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is part of the reason why sports-oriented chronographs from any maker – including Omega – are so much more coveted than their simpler counterparts. Not only are they more complicated, but they are also far more rare, with a target market much narrower than their simple time-telling brothers. Consider this original advertisement for the 1957 Omega Speedmaster seen below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["85ce5281-fb37-4045-bf9c-1b7d8101c3a0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here we see two men, one piloting what appears to be a performance car of some kind, and the other with his hand on the brand new \"Omega high-precision wrist computer\" that allows the wearer to determine the car's speed with \"no calculating. no paperwork.\" How is this done? With the T.P.M. – or Tacho-Productometer scale \"etched into the rim of the case.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>It's very easy for all of us to forget that mechanical watches were neither the fashion accessory that some consider them today, nor were they a retro throwback <i>nice-to-have</i> for the well-to-do and upwardly mobile – they were tools.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is what we were dealing with back then, folks. A Tacho-Productometer! That is what Omega first called its engraved tachymeter bezel. (Incidentally, if we can revive that term for the tachy-bezel, I will consider my life a success.) It's very easy for all of us to forget that mechanical watches were neither the luxury fashion object that some consider them today, nor were they a retro throwback <i>nice-to-have</i> for the well-to-do and upwardly mobile – they were tools. The 1957 Speedmaster, with its engraved tachy bezel, three-register chronograph, and anti-magnetic, shock-proof, triple-sealed case, water resistant up to 200 feet, was what Omega thought to be the most durable, highest precision, <i>most useful</i> wrist computer in the world.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Speedmaster Wasn't The Only Legendary Omega Born In 1957"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the Speedmaster is undoubtedly Omega's most famous watch to come from the year 1957, we must remember that it was launched as one part of an entire family of technical watches. The very same year, we would see the introduction of the reference 2913 Omega Seamaster, a new serious diver's watch aimed at competing with Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner, both introduced four years earlier in 1953. Further, 1957 saw the birth of the reference 2914 Railmaster, a highly anti-magnetic watch aimed squarely at engineers, and combating the Rolex Milgaus, IWC Ingenieur, and even Patek's 3417. Like the Speedmaster, the original Seamaster and Railmaster references (CK2913 and CK2914, respectively) remain remarkably difficult to track down in original condition. The Railmaster, for example, is the pride of Mr. Eric Ku, who showed his early example in his episode of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-talking-watches-with-eric-ku/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches</a>. While both the Railmaster and the Seamaster remain in production today – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-week-on-the-wrist-omega-seamaster-300-master-co-axial/" target=\"_blank\">the Seamaster 300 revived in its original form just last year</a> – the reference CK2915 Speedmaster remains the most sought after and valuable of all technical Omegas introduced in 1957.<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-talking-watches-with-eric-ku/" target=\"_blank\"> </a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dd141859-0279-456e-bbae-699abf128574","008dce0f-f784-4acd-9312-6ce3c3942256"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 2915 – Circa 1957 Through 1959"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c271f071-ea7c-40c1-b871-0bb9409c2e43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As discussed in the above video, the reference 2915 Omega Speedmaster is indeed the progenitor of the entire Speedy family, but I would hesitate to call it the archetype – I believe that to be the reference 2998. Still, the CK2915 is the most desirable and valuable of all Omega Speedmasters due to its importance, rarity, and completely different look. Launch in 1957 with reference 2915-1, the entire reference, including 2915-2 and the transitional 2915-3, would last barely three years. Identifying a 2915 watch is perhaps the easiest of all Speedmasters, due to some very noticeable differences from later watches, not the least of which are the broad arrow hands.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9c680bcc-3afc-4b42-b44f-a5b60198b812"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other easy to understand trait of the 2915 reference Speedmaster is the stainless steel bezel with tachymeter scale – or what Omega first called the <i>Tacho-Productometer</i> scale. Consider that at the time, a tachymeter scale existed – at best – on the outer rim of chronograph's dial. The large case with external bezel, Omega believed, would allow wearers to quicker reference the scale for measuring speed. Rolex's Daytona – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer/" target=\"_blank\">born a good six years later in 1963</a> – was to borrow this concept by putting a tachymeter scale on an external bezel, as did Heuer with its Autavia. The Heuer Carrera, however, would not receive a tacyhmeter scale at all until the mid to late 1960s with its 2447 reference NST and SNT – the \"T\" denoting tachymeter scale. Still, these scales were printed on the dial, not a bezel. Heuer would make up for this in the 1970s with the introduction of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://thoughts.onthedash.com/thoughts/heuers-innovation-the-rotating-tachymeter-bezel-for-race-timing//" target=\"_blank\">the <i>rotating</i> tachymeter bezel.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["be0f5c56-3ec5-4025-b181-d7f28566336e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the hands and bezel are absolutely the most easily discernable differences between the <i>super</i> early Speedmasters and just plain early Speedmasters, the 2915 is actually a dramatically different watch when you begin to examine the little things. The dial, for example, should feature an \"Omega\" with an oval shaped \"O.\" The tail of the \"R\" in \"Speedmaster\" should also be quite long on early watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["76da8122-6291-4575-bbb9-6b096a7e51ee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On reference 2915-1 and 2915-2, the case back actually may <i>not</i> feature an Omega hippocampus, instead being totally blank for the most part with \"Speedmaster\" written on one edge. Having said that, it is indeed possible for there to be a seahorse on the flat part of the back – though \"Speedmaster\" must always be written on the edge of the back in this instance. All backs of the 2915-1 and 2915-2 feature a single bevel to the edge.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["97b1dc8e-1404-47a7-a283-642ccb415ef1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reference 2915-3 is where things get tricky. This watch was made for only one year –1959 – and is the very definition of the \"transitional\" watch. What we mean by this is that just about anything goes here. It bears the reference of the earliest Speedmasters – 2915 – but that doesn't mean it may not look just like the watch that came next – reference 2998-1; you can find 2915-3 models with both a brushed metal and a black bezel with \"base 1000\" script. So it could look like a 2998, but at the same time, it may look <i>just</i> like an 2915-2.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>The word \"transitional\" may well have been invented for Speedmaster Reference 2915-3. Just about anything goes.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have seen 2915-3's with steel bezels and broad arrow hands. I've also seen them with black bezels and alpha hands (what you'll find on the next watch, reference 2998). I've seen 2915-3's with a steel bezel and alpha hands; I've seen them with a black bezel and broad arrow hands. The thing is, all of them could very well be correct. In 1959, Omega was finishing up production of its first Speedmasters, all the while ramping up to launch the <i>next</i> Speedmaster, and the 2915-3 was caught in the middle.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["555f34cf-0be1-4d09-8407-b335bc581233"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial, case, and pushers of the 2915-3 should match that of the 2915 as described, but you should see a case back that, for the first time, says \"Speedmaster\" directly above the Seahorse logo. The back should also feature a double-bevel. However, if you were to find a 2915-3 with an earlier back, I do not believe anyone would challenge its authenticity. The 2915-3 is a remarkably complicated watch to authenticate and value because of all this, whereas the 2915-1 and 2915-2 sit more clearly in the upper echelons of watch collecting, thanks to the relative lack of ambiguity in identifying them and establishing that they're correct.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 2998 – Circa 1959 Through 1963"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d44ef04c-aeff-409f-894f-70e131770038"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned above, the 2915 is certainly the earliest of the Speedmaster series, but I would argue the 2998 is potentially more important, and even the archetype for what we know today. I say this not with respect to value – I believe the 2915 should indeed warrant a premium over the 2998 due to age, rarity, and intrigue – but the 2998 is when the Speedmaster really came into its own. We see <i>eight</i> different sub-references of the 2998 from 1959 through 1963: -1 through -6, then -61, and -62. The difference between these eight sub-references can be minimal, so we'll do the best we can to break them down for you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ccafabbe-5ebf-47a2-b686-61e24485947d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first 2998, 2998-1, can be virtually identical to some of the 2915-3's produced in the very same year – 1959. We now see, universally, the \"base 1000\" script on a black bezel. Gone are the broad arrow hour and minute hands, and in their place are alpha hands. What you still may see in the 2998-1, however, is is the squat, oval-like \"O\" in Omega, though that is not a must for the 2998-1. The sub-register hands remain \"alpha\" shaped in the 2998-1. </p>\n\n<p>In reference 2998-2, we retain the Base 1000 bezel, the alpha hands for both hours and minutes <i>and</i> sub-registers, but no longer should we see an oval shaped \"O.\" The hands and dial remain the same for the reference 2998-3, only we lose the \"Base 1000\" bezel to be replaced by a \"Tachymétre 500\" bezel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6c531903-8938-4a97-a3e1-8d7cd3ab398a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By 2998-5, we <i>absolutely</i> see stick sub-register hands, a \"Base 500\" bezel, a circular \"O\" in Omega on the dial. We retain the crown-guard-less symmetrical case, and applied Omega symbol, and the watch remains relatively static for reference 2998-6, -61, and 62 – the latter two sub-references indicating year of production.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["54d7ee50-d9bd-4c5b-86bd-7c479a5144c7","a46787f8-69b2-459c-93d9-c4909111b7a9"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 2998, with its black bezel and alpha hands, set the stage for the Speedmaster that we know today. Also, it is with this reference that the connection to space begins to take shape. Astronaut Wally Schirra made his historic voyage aboard the Mercury Atlas 8 mission in October of 1962 wearing a reference 2998.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b3e00781-0d1a-438a-9e8b-debeadbe914c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Schirra's Omega was indeed the first in space, and it was used as the model for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-new-omega-s/" target=\"_blank\">\"The First Omega In Space\" released at Basel World in 2012</a>. It should be noted that this Omega was Schirra's personal watch, not one issued to him by NASA. That would come shortly thereafter.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 105.002 – Circa 1962 Through 1964"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f7699d5-690c-4c28-afa8-1bd840e8168c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What is funny about the next reference, 105.002, which was made from 1962 through 1964, is that it is in fact identical to the 2998-62. Further, one can even find 2998-62's that were made after a 105.002, so it is hard to say that the progression between models is linear. This is the very last reference to be born with alpha hour and minute hands.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 105.003 – Circa 1964 Through 1969"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["37a6313c-e31c-4878-90c1-f09442d4c1da"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here is where things get even more confusing. While an Omega has been in space already, we aren't yet at the point where NASA has flight-qualified anything. However, we do start to see the watch get a little beefier with larger pushers, and now thin white hour and minute hands that the Speedmaster would retain in perpetuity.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f5972dcf-2f0c-4479-84f5-c82a9df0b530"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While sub references -63 and -64 are quite rare, we do see many -65 105.003-65's in the wild. They were made all the way through the end of the caliber 321 period in 1969. Included here is also the reference 145.003, which is identical to the 105.003-65: symmetrical case, larger pushers, stick sub register and hour/minute hands. These are the last watches to be sized at 38mm.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 105.012 – Circa 1964 Through 1968"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79005a25-c3cb-4a0c-9982-0d53d14697d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With reference 105.012 we really see the Speedmaster start to evolve and take the shape of what we know – and is still made – today. For the first time we have crown guards – in fact we have an entirely new, larger mid-case. The pushers are wider, and completely protected by the new case design. On the dial, we have \"Professional\" written below \"Omega Speedmaster.\" Again, we must remember that Omega produced these watches at the very same time as other references featuring symmetrical cases and \"Pre-Professional\" dials. There is no linear transition with Speedmasters, and one must remember that when trying to date an example. With 105.012, we now also have a 42mm case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>With reference 105.012 we really see the Speedmaster start to evolve and take the shape of what we know – and is still made – today.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 105.012 takes its place in the history book not only because it features the thicker professional case we know today, but also because it was in fact the watch that would play a central role in space exploration. While it was the 105.003 that NASA used in its testing of chronographs, the 105.012 would be used to accompany Apollo astronauts on several early missions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f45e56ed-e37d-4717-8a1e-d5c0670bfb15","79eaee86-457f-4e86-82ab-3089bec2546e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Neil Armstrong wore a 105.012, Michael Collins wore the later 145.012, and Aldrin may have worn either – we just don't know. What's more, Aldrin's watch disappeared on the way to the Smithsonian in 1970, making it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ten-watches-were-still-looking-for/" target=\"_blank\">one of the great lost timepieces in history</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case for the reference 105.012 was made by two different casemakers. The vast majority of manually wound Speedmasters came from Huguenin Freres, but for this reference, we see a different casemaker on occasion. These watches are called 105.012CB and come from La Centrale Boîtes of Bien. You'll see beveled lyre lugs (some call them twisted flat lugs) on the case as you see below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf49dcfa-fd25-4117-a7a3-a24d137c623c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the inside of the case back you'll find the letters \"CB\" engraved, as seen <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/whats-selling-where-unheralded-1960s-sport-watches/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. It is quite rare to find an unpolished CB case 105.012 and they are certainly desired by many.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 145.012 – Circa 1967 Through 1969"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7706fb2f-ea8b-40d2-a0f0-d1c53aa17cb4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reference 145.012, while the latest and perhaps least valuable of all 321-powered Speedmaster, is in fact what I think of when I think of the term \"Speedmaster.\" It was produced from 1967 through 1968, though at times we see a few pieces trickle out in 1969. The 145.012 is similar to the 105.012, but now we have larger, taller pushers. While it is the most common 321 Speedmaster, it was also worn by more Astronauts than any other, and because it is the latest and most common, it it is the least expensive. In other words, this is probably the best deal in Speedmasters because you get true NASA DNA and the famed 321 caliber, but without having to spend a fortune.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Omega Speedmaster Reference 145.022 – Circa 1969 To 1988"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d65c8daf-9a94-4168-927c-05753cc57fbb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Reference 145.022 marked another major turning point for the Speedmaster. No longer would the moonwatch house the legendary column-wheel chronograph caliber 321. Instead, the moonwatch would feature the simpler and less expensive caliber 861, a cam-controlled chronograph. It is no coincidence that it was around the same time that the Speedmaster gained international acclaim as <i>the</i> Moonwatch that Omega decided to try to pump up production numbers by lowering costs. We must not also forget that this was the exact time period when Switzerland would begin to feel the pressure of Japanese quartz for the first time. It is easy to express disappointment in Omega's decision to kill the mighty 321, but they themselves were in danger of death.</p>\n\n<p>Because the 145.022 ran for so many years, there are many sub-references. The first, -68, can be considered a pre-moon watch because it was made in 1968 and though it contains an 861 caliber, it features an applied Omega logo on the dial. The case back is also identical to the 145.012, caliber 321 watch that predated it. Sub-reference -69 is the first to feature a painted logo on the dial while retaining the original caseback on early examples. Later example of the 145.022-68 feature engraved, straight text \"The First Watch Worn On The Moon.\"</p>\n\n<p>From 1971 through 1988, reference 145.022 would see a handful of sub-references with nominal changes to the dial printing. The first watch to feature the medallion case back is indeed the 145.022-71, and it was the last to feature a flanged dial. To many, it here where the concept of<i> vintage</i> Speedmaster collecting ends and the era of limited editions begins.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3401505c-4945-4e05-bbe1-0b5cf35d7f01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Collecting The Speedmaster"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I stated in the introduction to this story, our Reference Points pieces are not intended to tell you the stories behind the watches – but rather provide a detailed understanding of how to identify particular references through the eyes of a collector. We hope the above video and text does that for you, but I want to emphasize a few points for you to drive them home. First things first: with Omega Speedmaster collecting, anything goes. It is very likely that you could find watches with discrepancies from what I've described here, and they very well could be correct. This article is a guide to best practices and generally believed thinking on how each reference was made – not an exact science. Use this story as a guide, but be willing to do your own research to verify any watch.</p>\n\n<p>A note about dates – nothing with the Speedmaster is sequential. I once owned a 2915-2 that was produced in November of 1957, before many 2915-1's. I've seen 2915-1's with case backs that said 2915-2. I've seen 2998-1's with bezels from 2998-4's that I was <i>sure</i> were born that way. I've seen 145.012's produced in 1969 and 145.022's produced in 1968. Again, almost anything goes, but this story should provide you a guiding light into what <i>should</i> be.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4c86d8ca-3952-44d4-ba03-2c7b0979360c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This problem seems to be even compounded when you begin to look at the early watches – those with reference 2915 and 2998. The number of replacement parts, even fake parts, is just remarkable, and when looking at an early, high-dollar Speedmaster, be extra vigilant. As Eric mentioned in the above video, full-spec early Speedmasters are <i>remarkably</i> rare, and trump the least common Rolexes and Heuers by a considerable sum in terms of how infrequently we see them. Realistically, there are likely just a few hundred 2915's out there that remain \"full spec\" and even fewer that remain not badly polished. However, there were between 40,000 and 80,000 321-powered Omegas produced in the middle of last century, so do not think for one second that a 321 Speedmaster is <i>that</i> rare. It is this scale of production that traditionally hurt the value of the Speedmaster, though now it appears as if the great examples are already in collections and not leaving anytime soon.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>A full-spec early Speedmaster – Reference 2998 or 2915 – is remarkably rare, and deserves to be seriously coveted.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Next – and I say this knowing I will be hurting the feelings of many (sorry about that, truly) – even with the thousands of 321 Omegas being produced, the difference in quality, rarity, and long-term value of the 321 watches versus the 861's is considerable, and should be even more considerable with time. When Omega killed the 321 movement and jumped to the 861, the watch lost a big part of its charm – a truly world-class heart. The 321, as you likely know, is based on a Lemania chronograph caliber dating to 1941 that has been used in the likes of the greatest chronographs in the world – Patek 3970/5970/5004, countless Vacherons <i>to this day, </i>and now many Breguets. Of course, these high-end manufactures would dress up and finish the 321 in remarkable ways, but it did not change the fact that inside was still the same caliber as found in an Omega Speedmaster. Amazing bragging rights for the 321 owner, for sure.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["827ca252-304d-4af9-9d68-1439f1a870e0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, despite the watch-snob collector in me saying what I just said, I truly believe that every manually wound Speedmaster with <i>any</i> Lemania chronograph caliber in it is a spectacular watch. The Speedmaster does everything so well, and no matter the case style, dial type, or production year, a Speedmaster is an unbelievably satisfying watch to own long-term. What makes the Speedmaster even more fun is that is the only watch that I can think of that is still produced the same way, with the same case proportions and dial design, with <i>almost</i> the same caliber that it was in the late 1960s. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.omegawatches.com/watches/speedmaster/moonwatch/professional-42-mm/31130423001005//" target=\"_blank\">Omega still makes the Professional, and sells it all day long for a retail price of $5,250</a>. That means you can buy a great Speedmaster today and make it your very own – write your name on those papers, and own it and enjoy it every single day for the rest of your life, and there is a beauty in that, too. And quite frankly, even with the 1861 caliber instead of the 321, I don't think there is a better way to spend $5,000 on a new watch in the world.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Quick Reference Guide"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c1f54037-92e7-4c95-be86-c431f0f62a1c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Special Thanks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As always, our Reference Points stories are not a singular work but a culmination of others' independent studies and research. In the case of the Speedmaster, we would like to thank Eric Wind and the Christie's Watch Department for loaning not only their time but also several of the pieces seen above (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/salelanding/index.aspx?intSaleID=25971\%22 target=\"_blank\">to be sold in the Speedmaster 50 thematic sale on December 15 in NYC</a>). We would also like to thank <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.chronomaddox.com//" target=\"_blank\">the late Chuck Maddox,</a> our friends at Omega – both on the PR side and in the museum, and the gentlemen behind the amazing book Moonwatch Only, absolutely the finest guide to Speedmaster on the planet – which may be purchased <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/books/products/moonwatch-only/" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>HODINKEE is an authorized retailer of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/omega?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22>Omega watches</a>. Explore our entire collection of Speedmasters <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/speedmaster-collection?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22>here.%22,%22product_ids%22:[%224720647012427%22,%224720644915275%22,%224720647045195%22,%224298124787787%22]},%22type%22:%22Block::DisclosureBox%22}],%22migrated_content%22:true,%22meta_title%22:%22The Complete Guide To The Omega Speedmaster","meta_description":"Ben Clymer and Eric Wind go Speedy by Speedy","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"62b64a05-b6dd-4b77-80c2-06cfa654efe8","container_id":2774,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/hero_image/16c6519b2c335ddc1355e00847a4ea76","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-02-20T20:30:08.896-05:00","updated_at":"2022-01-07T15:34:35.240-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/hero_image/16c6519b2c335ddc1355e00847a4ea76?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":17,"slug":"reference_points","name":"Reference Points","description":"Extensive historical research on the lineage of important vintage watches.","sort_order":9,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.165-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.490-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional","full_title":"Reference Points: Understanding The Omega Speedmaster","tags":[]},{"id":2196,"slug":"reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona","column_slug":"reference_points","title":"Understanding The Rolex Paul Newman Daytona","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2014-04-03T11:35:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2015-03-06T16:31:46.000-05:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:40:00.614-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":5,"lede":"<p>The \"Paul Newman\" Daytona is a watch as infamous as it is famous, as dangerous as it is beautiful, and as valuable as it is rare. And here's everything you need to know about it.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106670286001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":"/features/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona","multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2196/_MG_5682_copy.jpg","hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":349395,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"cb292205-1e3d-475c-aac2-235481212a51","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>In honor of the upcoming sale of P</i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newmans-paul-newman-daytona-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\"><i>aul Newman's very own Paul Newman Daytona</i></a><i>, we thought we would flashback to the comprehensive Reference Points on the Paul Newman Daytona. Prior to Thursday night's sale, be sure to brush up on how the Paul Newman Daytona came to be and all the references that go with it. Stay tuned for more.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the second installment of our Reference Points series we will tackle perhaps the most discussed family of watches in modern timepiece collecting. This watch is as infamous as it is famous, it's as dangerous as it is beautiful, and valuable as it is rare. I'm talking about nothing short of the Rolex \"Paul Newman\" Daytona, and here we will explore the six references of this absolutely legendary timepiece, as well as go into its history, ups, downs, ins and outs. But first, if you haven't read our first \"Reference Points\" feature on Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/understanding-the-entire-lineage-of-patek-philippe-perpetual/" target=\"_blank\">we encourage you to do so here</a>.</p>\n<p>First things first, this report will not be an exposé on the life of Paul Newman, nor the several watches that he wore. For that, I encourage you to read <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://rolexblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/profiles-in-coolness-paul-newman.html/">this story over at Jake's Rolex World</a>. Here will examine each reference of the Paul Newman Daytona so that you, our dear readers, will understand the varying qualities of this highly collectible and oft misinterpreted watch. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"So, What Makes A Paul Newman A Paul Newman?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["66837fea-4f61-4d29-892a-4b3e9ff72860"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both of the watches you see above are Rolex Cosmograph Daytonas Reference 6239 in stainless steel with black dials. Both were made (approximately) in 1967. The 6239 on the left would have a fair street market value of around $25,000-$30,000, while the 6239 on the right would have a value of around $90,000-$100,000. To be specific, the watch on the left sold for $28,750 in December of 2013, while the one on the right sold for $93,750 in the very same auction. These two watches are all but identical mechanically, and in fact the case of the 6239 on the left appears to be even stronger than the case of the 6239 on the right – so why was there a price difference of $65,000 between the two? Because the watch on the right is a Paul Newman Daytona, and the one on the left is not. The only difference, really? The dial, and that's it. The only thing that makes a vintage Daytona a \"Paul Newman\" Daytona is the dial. And that is why the Paul Newman is one of the most dangerous vintage watches to buy. More on that shortly. </p>\n<p>Let's zoom in on some dials so you can see, specifically, what makes a Paul Newman a Paul Newman:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e47246fb-4583-4293-acb0-d6339e64f17f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a21225a2-6b67-4a81-81fb-21a00c933080"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the two photos above, you can see the differences quite clearly. The Paul Newman features an art deco style font for the numerals, and the hash marks have a small square at the end. Additionally, there is a small \"step\" in the dial between the outer minute track and the center of the dial. In this particular example of the 6241 PN, the dial features a third color (red) which adds a bit of character. But, are a few little design traits worth paying that much more for a Daytona? When the exotic dials were first shown by Rolex, not many believed so.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In fact, these dials sat on shelves for years and years. The traditional Daytona dials were much preferred by Rolex clients to the funky multi-colored dials that now fetch so much money to collectors. As such, it is not uncommon to see Paul Newmans with original sales receipts in some cases several years, if not decades, later than the production date. This is just one reason why the world of Paul Newmans is so murky.</p>\n<p>And, because these exotic dials didn't sell well, Rolex simply didn't make that many of them. Andrew Shear of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sheartime.com//">ShearTime estimates that for every 20 normal Daytona dials, there would be one exotic dial made. And we mustn't forget that Rolex was not the vertically integrated manufacturer that it is today – it was another company, Singer, who was making the dials for them. And Singer was making \"Paul Newman\" style dials for not just Rolex, either. For example, here is a two register Vulcain with exotic style dial that we sold in our Chicago Pop-Up last year for practically nothing.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d183b1b6-3492-4ccb-8fe9-aa94dc0d7d03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It is Singer's involvement with the production of these massively valuable dials that makes the whole situation even murkier still. In the period of the 1980s through the early 2000s, when exotic dial Daytonas gained in popularity and Italian collectors soon proclaimed them The \"Paul Newman\" Daytonas, we began to see an enormous up-tick in the numbers of these dials. And this is when the slow-seller of the 1960s and 70s became the hottest vintage watch in the world.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Power Of Paul Newman, And The Italians"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bc03dc80-cba2-4eba-8066-af64eadfe1b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Above you see a photograph of Mr. Newman wearing his own Reference 6239 exotic dial. It is not clear when this photo was taken, or for what, but it since become the quintessential Newman on Newman photograph (borrowed from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://rolexblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/paul-newman-daytona-fatstrap.html/">my friend Jake</a>). But, how did this dog of a watch become such an icon, and how exactly did watch collectors discover Mr. Newman's tie to this particular dial? The often told yet completely unsubstantiated story is that Newman wore his 6239 on the cover of an Italian magazine, and that it was at that moment that the powerful Italian collector/dealer base decided it would be the next thing in watches. I've never seen this magazine cover, nor spoken to a single person that has either. But, some how, some way, Newman's ownership of an exotic dial Daytona became known, and the watch was off to the races, so to speak.</p>\n<p>Let's take a look at a copy of The Habsburg, Feldman (now Antiquorum) catalog I keep in my office, which shows estimates for some fantastic watches on December 7th, 1988. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9e7a33ec-c370-4ee7-8d89-5aaae1b0d042"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here you see two reference 6241 Paul Newmans. One of them is in gold and has an estimate of $8,000-$10,000. The other is steel and has an estimate of $3,000 to $3,500. There is a third PN in this catalog – a steel 6239 white dial, with an estimate of $3,000 to $4,000. FOR A PAUL NEWMAN DAYTONA. It doesn't sound like much, but remember, retail on this watch just 15 years before was $300. Still, it's interesting to note how quickly the prices of of Paul Newman have climbed since right around this sale.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"images":["a4e60b7e-773a-4444-ab6d-9d1e6362a036","68e925cc-9c75-40d2-ad1a-8c55877dc94e"]},"type":"Block::Gallery"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If we take a 20 year look at the Paul Newman, using the 6239 white dial as our model, you can see that the rise is meteoric. In fact, there isn't another serially produced watch in the world that could match the increase in value that we've seen with Paul Newmans over the past 20 some years.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6b79f656-b9f8-4e8d-899c-07f0f491365d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>2013</strong> $75,000 <i>(Christie’s, New York, June 11, 2013)</i></p>\n<p><strong>2008</strong> $66,000 <i>(Antiquorum, October 17, 2008)</i></p>\n<p><strong>2003</strong> $39,434 <i>(Antiquorum, October 11, 2003)</i></p>\n<p><strong>1998</strong> $17,296 <i>(Christie’s, London, March 18, 1998)</i></p>\n<p><strong>1992</strong> $9,257 <i>(Antiquorum, April 11, 1992)</i></p>\n<p>But, because of this, and because there is no technical difference between a basic Daytona and a Paul Newman Daytona beyond the type of dial it uses, it has presented one of largest opportunities for the ugly side of vintage Rolex to rear its head. There are more fake Paul Newman dials in the world than there are fake dials for all other watches combined. In fact, based on conversations with seasoned collectors, it is fair to say there are more fake Paul Newman dials in the world than there are real ones. It is for this reason that for the Paul Newman in particular, I highly, highly recommend you buy the seller as much as the watch when looking for one of these undeniably cool chronographs. I will not go into how to spot fake Paul Newman dials in this article – it's a rabbit hole simply far too wide and deep to explain in a solitary article. We also do not want to encourage anyone who might be looking to create a counterfeit dial by telling them what they're doing wrong. But, below I will explain each of the six references that you may come across in perusing the Paul Newman so that you can understand the differences.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 6239"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0e4665be-5ece-4f8d-8517-1836a0df72a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first, most common, and least expensive Paul Newman Daytona also happens to be the most authentic, in that it's the actual reference worn by Newman himself. The 6239 features pump pushers and a steel bezel, with the Rolex Valjoux 722 beating inside. It may be found with both a white or black dial with production beginning in the mid 1960s, certainly after the MK 1 Daytonas found only in 1963. The dial is a three color dial, in that it consists of black, white, and red, and features the word \"Daytona\" written above the register at 6 o'clock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 6241"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["057c48eb-d1b7-448b-a9df-5076a2454979"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 6241 is identical to the 6239 in every way, but with the addition of a black acrylic bezel. Again, we have the Valjoux 722, a three color dial, and pump pushers. More desirable and rare than the 6239, expect a 10-15% premium on the 6241 compared to your basic 6239. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Transitional Reference 6262"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5f1cb207-0022-491f-aabf-8c5826a847b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a 6262. Looks a hell of a lot like the 6239, doesn't it? It does. In fact, it's all but identical on the outside. On the inside, however, the 6262 features an upgraded Valjoux caliber called the 727. The base 722 found in the 6239 beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour, while the new 727 is sped up to 21,600 beats per hour. The 6262 features a steel bezel, tri-color dial (though it may be found with a two-color dial, too), and pump pushers. It is only made for one year, from 1970-1971, and is a very rare reference, though because it looks just like the 6239, doesn't fetch a tremendous premium. Still, if you're a nerd like me, the 6262 is a super cool watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Transitional Reference 6264"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da70df8b-0be8-4e04-8434-5e9fb05686c8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 6264 is the black bezel counterpart to the 6262. Again, made only for just one year, the 6264 features the upgraded, higher beat caliber 727, pump pushers, and a black acrylic bezel. Though the example pictured here in 18k yellow gold, a steel example would indeed feature a stepped three color dial with \"Daytona\" above 6 o'clock as well, though it is possible to see a two-color dial on a 6264. Again, the 6264 is a very rare reference made for just one year, and serves as the bridge between the low-beat, pump pusher Daytonas and the high-beat, Oyster Daytonas. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Oyster Reference 6265"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["14fc66e5-357f-40c7-a999-deb5ad2717dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Starting around 1970 you begin to see the final two references of the manually wound Rolex Daytonas. Reference 6265, as seen here, features a thicker \"Oyster\" style case with screw-down pushers. The 6265 features a graduated stainless steel bezel, and now instead of three color dial, you have a traditional \"Panda\" style dial in just white and black. Additionally, there is no \"Daytona\" written above 6 o'clock. Further, there is no such thing as a 6265 Paul Newman with a black dial that is signed \"Rolex Oyster Cosmograph.\" The only black screw-down Paul Newman Daytona should be signed \"Rolex Cosmograph Oyster,\" and they are extremely rare at that. More on that below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Oyster Reference 6263"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b8002f0-bc50-463a-be71-768456a300f4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex Cosmograph Oyster Reference 6263 with a Panda Paul Newman dial is, how do I say this... perfect? Yes, that's it. The Panda 6263 is the most desired, most beautiful, and most expensive standard Paul Newman Daytona around. There is just something about the way the white two-color dial plays against the black acrylic bezel. Of course, the 6263 mimics the 6265 technically with the Valjoux 727 inside, with screw-down pushers. Again, you will not find a black dial 6263 Paul Newman with \"ROC\" signature, but you will find a few with \"RCO.\" And by a few, I mean really a few. It is estimated that less than 20 black dial screw-down Paul Newmans are known, and when they come up for sale, they do really, really well. Like, you know, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/rolex-an-extremely-rare-and-important-stainless-5731690-details.aspx?from=salesummary&intObjectID=5731690&sid=1d66505a-e9d0-4857-80c9-9e5b25bf7eb8\%22>over $1,000,000 well</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the panda dial 6263's are certainly more common than your black dial RCO's, they are by no means common, and finding an original Oyster PN in good condition is becoming increasingly difficult. As such, the asking price of any nice 6263 Paul Newman is now over $200,000, where a silver dial, non-PN 6263 is around $40,000 in mint condition. Crazy, but true. That begs the question, if the Paul Newman is all about the looks, are they really worth the remarkable premium?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Future Of The Paul Newman Daytona"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["61e573bc-5e9b-4da2-9dc3-b6f22d34701d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Do not, even for a single second, try to reason with yourself why prices of Paul Newmans are so, so much higher than normal Daytonas. Or, why they are so, so much higher than exotic dial Heuers, Universals, or other comparable chronographs from similar time periods. It just doesn't make sense if you look at things on an even remotely pragmatic level. But, nothing about collecting watches, in particular vintage Rolex watches, makes sense on paper, does it?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3a8800a5-ea52-4d18-81ed-a947105c898d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Is the Paul Newman a rare watch? Yes, it is. It's actually far more rare than you might imagine based on how many you see in the online space. There are a lot of dials out there that should not be on the watches they're on. There are a lot of dials out there that are really fake, and a lot of dials out there that are a little fake, and there are dials out there they are real, but on the wrong watch – indicating someone has swapped parts around (Why would someone do this, you ask? Say for example you have a highly polished case on a 6239 with a Paul Newman dial, but the dial is in mint condition. Then, you have a 6241 with a mint case but a normal, non-PN dial. All one would have to do to make that 6241 into $100,000+ watch is swap the dial, but if you do that with the incorrect reference, all of a sudden, you have a dial that doesn't match the watch.) So, what I'm saying is that while you see a lot of watches that look like Paul Newmans, finding a 100% correct Paul Newman is no easy task, let alone one in nice shape. But, on top of that, a Paul Newman is still far less rare than two early chronographs I am particularly fond of: The Mark 1 6239 Daytona, and the 2915 Speedmaster. Both of these watches will run you $60,000 to $80,000 if in great shape, and I think they are both slightly more interesting than a Paul Newman, which today starts at $100,000. But, that doesn't mean they're cooler, or even have a bigger upside financially. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ec4189e7-b514-4b9a-b7ec-9bb5c7a04714"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Paul Newman is so desirable for so many reasons, one of which is the undeniable fact that the thing is just downright gorgeous. The playfulness of the dial is so beautiful, so very un-Rolex. On the wrist, a Paul Newman is hard to match. And, because it's so well known, they are about as liquid as any watch in the world, even at the astronomical prices that we see now. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e3dbc183-af67-4488-b2d2-667cb7b84390"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Will prices just continue to climb on and on, in perpetuity? They might, especially as we continue to learn more about the different dials and strive to weed out the bad eggs. The Paul Newman is arguably the most famous and sought after of the mega Rolexes, and I don't believe that will change any time soon. Though, I don't claim to know the future and do believe we remain in a bit of a spike after the Christie's Rolex Daytona: Less One sale, where the average watch brought down over $264,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"79448585","poster_url":null,"video_type":"vimeo"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Ultimate Ultimate Daytonas"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Up until now, we've covered the basic Paul Newman watches to provide you a simple understanding of their core differences. But, even within this mega range of mega watches, there exists some that are even more special. First, there are the gold Paul Newmans. Like the 6264 featured here, these solid gold watches (in both 14k and 18) are highly sought after by collectors. They are typically found with either black or champagne colored dials.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["887a4069-a8d8-4f2d-84db-469ac5dccc8d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, we have tropical Paul Newmans. Just like any other tropical Rolex, this refers to when the black of a dial begins to turn to a nice warm brown color. Expect to pay a little premium here depending on how even the fading is. Here is a 6241 tropical Paul Newman:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["24d157e8-6c90-4729-958f-17006592c8e6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Moving along, there are the double-signed Paul Newman Daytonas. Here, for example, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://watchesinrome.it/watches.html/">are two Tiffany-signed 6239 Daytonas for sale in Rome</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8f003441-55b5-4129-8fb3-40f215754856"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most valuable double-signed Paul Newmans was sold by Christie's approximately one year ago, and that was a gold 6241 retailed by Hermes in Paris. You can read about it here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e8c5279c-44d3-4c9c-9937-eec6823d606d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, we have the Lemon dial Paul Newman, which sold last year at Antiquorum for over $840,000 due to its solid gold Oyster case and never seen before dial. You can read about that one here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fe5bb0eb-bdb9-42a5-a278-88c71cc14862"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, we have something even more exotic. This isn't really part of the Paul Newman family in that it's not technically a Daytona – it's the original Yachtmaster. This prototype dial exists in just three examples: one belongs to Rolex, the other once belonged to Mr. Eric Clapton, and the third belongs to John Goldberger, who was nice enough to show it to us here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0a5d407a-0691-44ae-b740-e12e2a80a56d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Quick Reference Guide"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["90476b9b-5f9b-41e9-99a2-1e8f585936b5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The above chart is by no means the end-all of Paul Newman Daytona reference materials, but it will provide you with a basic understanding of the configurations most often found and accepted as valid. I should note that we have chosen to omit reference 6240 (early transitional Oyster case with caliber 722) because of its rarity. The consensus is that indeed it is possible to find a 6240 with original Paul Newman dial, and if you do, it should have a two-color Mark 1 Panda dial or a three-color RCO, and come on a later 6240 production watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Words"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bdcf083c-40ab-4d02-9fae-e623e47b2d7e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I hope this version of Reference Points will serve not to dissuade anyone from pursuing a \"Paul Newman\" Daytona, but actually assist those that may be actively seeking to understand this watch better. The Paul Newman is absolutely the most dangerous high-end vintage watch in the world, and I can not stress enough how important it is to do one's homework when buying, and to always remember that if something appears to be too good to be true, in particular with a Paul Newman, it likely is. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b9bcbe43-e475-4a50-a8dc-aa392545e150"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Having said that, there is something very special about the Paul Newman, and even just being around one can give a true watch lover serious chills – this watch is nothing short of true legend. And I don't see that changing any time soon.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Special Thanks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I would like to pay special thanks to Mr. Andrew Shear, who not only supplied the seven Paul Newman Daytonas featured in this article, but was also instrumental in the research put forth here. Andrew is one of the finest vintage Rolex experts and dealers in the world and I have no trouble recommending him for any of your vintage Rolex needs. You may view <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sheartime.com//">his website here</a>.</p>\n<p>Additional thanks go out to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://silverliningopticians.com//">Silver Lining Opticians</a>, who was nice enough to allow us into their awesome Soho shop for filming. Check them out at 92 Thompson Street for the best in vintage and independent eye-wear.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"6c0cdc31-c76c-4ef4-8d41-d152985995ba","container_id":2196,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2196/_MG_5682_copy.jpg","width":1500,"height":1000,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-02-20T20:30:07.192-05:00","updated_at":"2017-04-22T16:55:19.248-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/article/hero_image/2196/_MG_5682_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":17,"slug":"reference_points","name":"Reference Points","description":"Extensive historical research on the lineage of important vintage watches.","sort_order":9,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.165-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.490-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-the-paul-newman-daytona","full_title":"Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Paul Newman Daytona","tags":[]},{"id":2234,"slug":"understanding-the-entire-lineage-of-patek-philippe-perpetual","column_slug":"reference_points","title":"Understanding The Entire Lineage Of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2014-03-11T23:12:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2015-03-11T17:20:15.000-04:00","updated_at":"2021-06-23T10:40:09.874-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":5,"lede":"<p>Perpetual calendar chronographs by Patek Philippe present arguably the most important combination of complications in 20th-century horology. We're taking you all the way back to the beginning.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106668749001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":"ref_pts_safdie_2320.jpg","gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":true,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2234/ref_pts_safdie_2880.jpg","hero_homepage_image_url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_homepage_image/2234/ref_pts_safdie_2320.jpg","view_count":150598,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"5a919021-fd73-4fa2-8c94-1d6b10611f7a","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Welcome to the first in an ongoing series we're calling \"Reference Points.\" In this series, we will be working backwards in a way, to tell all you lovers of horology about some important watches that we feel make up the foundation of modern wristwatches. We've tried to give you tidbits of historical knowledge in several of our articles over the years – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/?category=Historical%20Perspectives\%22>in particular those from the \"Historical Perspectives\" category</a> – but now we're going even further. For our first \"Reference Points\" feature, we're starting with what is arguably the most important pairing of complications there is – perpetual calendar chronographs by Patek Philippe. And we're taking you all the way back to the beginning.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d974d3a1-1813-4066-8431-99eedd9e6299"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not sure there is a more important family of watches than the one we're about to discuss. Rolex dive watches, maybe? Probably not, even. Perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe make up a veritable royal legacy in wristwatch collecting that even today, in the year marking Patek Philippe's 175th anniversary, hasn't been matched. The combination of complications – a perpetual calendar mechanism coupled with a chronograph – is such a remarkable thing, in which the sum is so much greater than its parts. In this feature, we will examine six historical references, none of which are still in production, with a few mentions of some important outliers. These are references that, in the opinion of this publication, every watch lover should know. Let's start at the beginning...</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 1518"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1fa56cb0-e4d7-4ba3-b514-d386f9c3345e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very first serially produced perpetual calendar with chronograph dates to 1941 and bares the reference 1518. The 1518 is the watch that started it all, not only with perpetual calendar chronographs but with serially produced complicated watches for Patek Philippe as a mark, and for the industry in general. We are jaded now, with opulent trade shows like SIHH and Basel World showing us new mega complications from dozens of brands two times a year. Nobody was making complicated watches back in 1941, and when they did, it was on direct commission from someone like Henry Graves, Jr., or James Ward Packard. The 1518 was a true revelation, and in 1941 (while the world was at war, no less) Patek Philippe created a true masterpiece in 35 millimeters. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8e7887d3-0d5c-4cf7-a923-e8e2a56859f7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It would be the 1518's twin apertures at 12 o'clock, coupled with two chronograph registers at 3 and 9, plus a circular date display and moonphase at 6 o'clock, that would literally provide the design schematics for Patek's most important watches over the next 70 years. Each dial of the 1518 was silver in color with a hard enameled tachymeter scale, and the complete movement number of each 1518 is engraved on the rear of the dial. The two silver date discs are also enamel, as is the moon phase disc with inlaid blue enamel and gold stars and moon. The cases of the 1518 were made by by Georges Croisier, which later became Genevor SA, and the case was a three piece design with concave bezel and downturned lugs. The original price of the 1518 in 1944 was 2,800 Swiss Francs. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f5b15c82-cf0e-4be6-9cdd-fd597f8755de"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the 1518 is an incredible movement called the caliber 13'''130, based on a Valjoux ebauche. It features straight line lever escapement, Cotes de Geneve decoration, a self-compensating Breguet overcoil, and a swan-neck regulator. The 23 jewel movement was stamped with the Geneva seal indicating the highest quality finish, and was hardly a basic Valjoux movement. Consider the fact that not a single other manufacture even attempted a perpetual calendar chronograph for another half a century after the 1518's introduction. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6d4063fb-02ed-4906-a828-0e151d644a95"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Ultimate 1518"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Still, while the 1518 is indeed the original perpetual calendar chronograph and the absolute foundation of this incredible line, it is not necessarily the most desirable reference as a whole. The 35mm case and square pushers tend to make it more of a gentleman's chronograph than something modern and wearable daily. But, what the 1518 does have that no other Patek perpetual chronograph has to this day is a few examples in what many believe to be the ultimate metal for a Patek Philippe, and that's stainless steel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["672009ca-f6ed-4b43-a33e-1c2c180b8e11"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Four examples of the 1518 are known in stainless steel, and they are considered some of the most valuable and rarest watches on earth. All of them were made during war-time years and all four can be seen in detail in John Goldberger's book Stainless Steel Patek Philippe. These watches have no real market value because they have never been sold publicly, but <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-09-24/patek-philippe-collector-tops-s-p-with-18-gain-in-fund.html/">Bloomberg detailed the tale of one such purchase by Alfredo Paramico at a price of 2.2 million euro in 2007</a>. To me, a 1518 in steel is the holy grail.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["90282c93-00ec-45e7-8651-8d5709c7d28e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 2499"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f2ae9772-df6e-42f8-833f-6106ea7f5d6f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After the 1518's 13 year run came the 2499. Actually, the 2499 is said to have launched in 1951, meaning the earliest of the 2499s were made alongside the latest 1518s, which had a production end date of 1954. The Patek 2499 is considered by many to be the ultimate Patek Philippe, capturing old world charm with modern wearability. The 2499 is also probably the most studied and dissected of PP perpetual chronos and here we'll go through each of the four series so that next time you come across a power player wearing his most powerful watch, you'll know more than just the reference. </p>\n<p>The first series Patek Philippe 2499 features a dial, hands, and pushers that really, really resemble those of the 1518, its immediate predecessor. All first series 2499s feature square chronograph pushers, applied Arabic numerals, and a tachymeter scale, as you can see in the example below:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ebe8be58-98b3-4880-bb1a-6be9028888b0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first series 2499 above sold for over $400,000 in December of 2012 – that sounds like a lot of money, right? It is, but again, metals can make such a huge difference in prices. Consider that six months earlier, in May of 2012, a 2499 first series in pink gold (though also with a special 37.5mm case) sold <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/5/15/patek-philippe-reference-2499-perpetual-calendar-chronograph.html/">at Christie's for a whopping $2.75 million</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0e8a6236-8810-47c8-b072-8016ffa53bb8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After the first series, the design codes of the 2499 changed considerably. You, all of a sudden, see round pump pushers, and either applied batons or Arabic numerals, still with a tachymeter scale. Again, the vast majority of the 2499s you find will be in yellow gold, but when one does come up in rose, all bets are off. For example, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-an-exceptionally-fine-rare-and-5731413-details.aspx/">this pink on pink 2499 second series sold at Christie's this past November for $2.16 million</a>. </p>\n<p>You start to see second series watches show up with production dates in the middle of the 1950s, four years after the 2499 began its 35-year run. Eventually, you find yourself in the third and fourth series of the 2499, where there is no longer a tachymeter scale on the dial and Arabic numerals are never found at all. The most common, and arguably least desirable of the four series of 2499 is the third series because, well, it is most common. The third series watch was made approximately from 1960 through 1978, or about half the entire run of the 2499. The third series watch closely resembles most second series watches, but the easiest way to tell a later series watch is by looking at the dial. Does it have applied baton markers, and does it NOT have a tachymeter? Then it's either a third or fourth series watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9b4d39ce-87b3-4b72-83bc-3c799568d749"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And the difference between the third and fourth series? Not much, really, except the fourth series was essentially a transitional watch between the realms of vintage and modern. It was made from around 1978 through 1985, when the last few watches would take on the reference 2499/100. The major physical difference between the fourth series and all the previous is that it actually uses a sapphire crystal.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Ultimate 2499"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1c66808f-d689-402b-86bb-30ad0bdc61e8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And what about the value of 2499s? Well, as you can see, they can get really expensive, really quickly. Like, if one happens to be in rose gold you're talking over a million dollars. If one has, for example, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-an-extremely-fine-very-important-5731369-details.aspx/">a Cartier signature on the dial, you're talking over a million dollars</a>. Of course, the most expensive of all 2499 was sold by Christie's Geneva in November of 2012 and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499/">we told you all about it here</a>. While the 1518 may have steel, the 2499 has platinum. Actually, there are two platinum 2499/100s in the world – both were made on direct commission from Mr. Stern himself in 1985. One would remain in the possession of the Sterns, who display it without much fanfare inside their museum in Geneva. The other would be sold to the general public at the sale that would change the course of history for Patek Philippe, the April 9th, 1989 auction entitled \"The Art of Patek Philippe.\" Here, along with just about every major Patek Philippe one could possibly imagine, the singular publicly sold platinum 2499 hit the auction block, bringing it a total of 418,000 Swiss Francs, or about $253,300 at the time. Adjusted for inflation, that's about $513,688. Keep in mind, this was 1989, not 2014. Nobody was spending that much money on watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"51399608","poster_url":null,"video_type":"vimeo"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The platinum 2499 ultimately ended up in the hands of one of the world's great Patek Philippe collectors, a man named Eric Clapton. Yes, THE Eric Clapton. It was known within the watch collecting world that Clapton owned the watch, and we simply never thought we'd see it come up for sale again. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499/">And then it did, in November 2012 when I wrote this story</a>. When it sold, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499/">it did so for $3.63 million</a>, thus cementing the 2499's position as one of the most desirable watches on the planet. Though, it should be noted, many expected the Clapton 2499 to sell for even more – it was not even the most expensive watch in the sale, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/a-look-at-jb-champions-unique-observatory-chronometer-wristwatch-the-other-patek-with-a-chance-to-become-the-most-expensive-watch-in-the-world/">this was</a>.</p>\n<p>Still the Patek Philippe 2499 is considered the very peak of Patek Philippe design and with only 349 examples being made over 35 years (that's fewer than 10 watches per year!) prices have been steadily climbing. It's 37mm+ size, four distinct families, and incredible lineage make it as desirable as it gets, and it looks simply superb on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["62425335-6385-4dbd-9680-ffe90bc31cd1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 3970"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7f0c2799-fa29-46dc-bb42-16e0c7e232e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Welcome to the modern era, and welcome to the 3970. The 3970 is an insanely well-balanced watch, and is as pure a Patek Philippe as one could ask for. The 3970 followed up the 2499 immediately after the final 2499/100s with a 1986 introduction at retail. The 3970, like the 2499, was made for several years, and because we are now dealing with modern production facilities, it was made in many more examples. But before we get into the nitty gritty of the 3970, we must first talk about the movement inside. The 3970 was the first Patek Philippe to use not a Valjoux-based chronograph, but instead one based on a Lemania movement called the 2310. The 2310 is now considered one of the finest movements in the world and it has stood the test of time better than just about any other singular caliber. The 2310 is the foundation of Omega's caliber 321 – the heralded \"moon watch\" caliber – as well as the base caliber for a handful of Patek Philippes, Vacheron Constantins, Breguets, and others. Inside the 3970, and eventually both the 5020 and 5970, the perpetual calendar chronograph was called the Caliber CH 27-70 Q.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d9281a87-b816-42e3-bc17-d63799ff7303"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's also interesting to note about the 3970 that despite it being introduced in the middle of a decade known for highly conspicuous spending, the heir to the perpetual calendar chronograph dynasty wasn't upsized at all. In fact, the 37.5mm case from the 2499 was cut back down to 36mm, finding a happy medium at 1mm larger than the 1518. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9ee79156-2446-41ad-b2d7-b10dfd4130c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ok, so let's get into the down and dirty details of the 3970. The first thing you need to know is you can throw away any notion of million dollar price tags because of metals. Sure, you're going to pay more for a platinum 3970 than you will for a rose, and you'll pay more for a rose than you will a yellow, but the 3970 was made in series in all four metals – including for the first time a perpetual chronograph in white gold. Also, there are series of 3970s just like there are 2499s and I'll do my best to break them out as clearly as possible for you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The First 100 Watches Of The 3970/3971"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first series 3970 was made in 1986 with a run of about 100 watches, all in yellow gold. And to make things even more confusing, the 3970 was actually launched alongside a sister reference called the 3971. Both of these watches featured snap casebacks, instead of the more modern screw-down casebacks. The 3970 featured a solid caseback, while the 3971, as pictured above from the rear, featured a snap caseback that was sapphire. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2bec6a71-2b68-49e4-8c0b-85b846c570fd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first series featured leaf hands and baton markers, giving it a look very similar to that of an early second series 2499. The watch pictured below is believed to be the 9th 3971 ever produced, and it belonged to Reginald \"Pete\" Fullerton, the grandson of great Patek collector Henry Graves, Jr. These early snapback watches are incredibly sought after and can bring a serious premium over late 3970s in yellow gold. First series 3970s feature sub-registers that are just a little bit off color from the rest of the dial. This watch here sold for $116,000 at auction, and considering just how early it is, I believe, in hindsight, it was a bargain. You can read more about it and the rest of Fullerton's collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/6/11/inside-the-collection-of-pete-fullerton-how-does-the-heir-to.html/">here.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["23da4be4-1606-49e2-8780-cf3e5aa291d4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"So after the first series of 3970s, which you practically never see, you have a second series of watches. A second series 3970 is very, very similar to the first series from the front. You have the same leaf hands and the same stick markers on the dial. The big difference on the front is that the registers now match the dial – all the coloring will be uniform. But, it's on the rear that the 3970 second series differs from the first in the most significant way. Instead of a snapback, you have a solid screwback. At least officially. Because, in the early years of the 3970, Patek Philippe was accommodating to its customers, and just like we saw that sapphire snapback on the 9th ever 3971 belonging to Mr. Fullerton, a client could request a screwback with sapphire crystal. Most second series 3970s do not feature a display caseback, but they do exist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e08bff5b-c4a9-4030-baff-e643aefe0263"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In fact, the watch we have here, which is a second series 3970R, has the rare sapphire screw back. The second series 3970 was produced from around 1986 through 1991, and was then immediately followed by the 3971 with sapphire screwback. Second series watches are quite collectible, and while there isn't a huge premium for them when buying, I tend to believe that over the years, the differentiation between the first and second series watches versus the third series 3970 will become more pronounced. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["539ab0c8-4771-4257-9b8f-c7bea0384093"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So about that third series 3970. The vast majority of the 3970s that you see are third series watches. The official reference would be a 3970E – the \"E\" stands for \"etanche\" or \"waterproof\" because now Patek offers the 3970 with both a sapphire and solid screw back for all watches. On the front of the watch, you'll find baton hands instead of leaf, and hour markers with pointed tips. The printing of the dial itself will be much darker than on the first or second series, and you'll notice the dial is now a bright, clear silver. Here is an example of a very late production watch, dating to 2004, that will show you what a third series 3970 will look like. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f5de48c8-d006-4ab0-b75e-29987809b085"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now the 3970, with its 36mm size and incredible refined look is really something special in my eyes. It is the watch that I think may even best define what Patek Philippe is all about, but its pricing is at once much more transparent and much murkier than what you'll find on the true vintage pieces like the 1518 or 2499. The reason for this is there are so many 3970s in the market. The rough estimate based on its 18-year production run is somewhere between 2,400 and 3,600 watches. So, that's more than 10 times the number of 1518s or 2499s made. Prices, as such, will be considerably less. The thing is, you can buy a 3970J for $75,000, or you can buy one for $140,000. The first will be a third series watch that has been polished extensively, and is maybe missing the original papers. The second will be a first series watch, unpolished, with all its original accessories.</p>\n<p>With 3970s, condition makes a world of difference, and in most cases, you will not want a $75,000 3970, no matter how tempting it is. But, you can buy a nice honest 3970J at $100,000 and feel great about it. Yes, we're still talking six figures, but you are getting tremendous bang for your buck and a watch that simply nobody can argue with. Besides the first series watches, the most expensive pieces will be 3970P (that's platinum), in particular if born with a black stick dial – most black dials for the 3970P have diamond markers. That said, many consider the rarest 3970s to be those in white gold with a black stick dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Ultimate 3970?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There really isn't one. At least not in the same way that you have the steel 1518s or the platinum 2499s. These watches were made in platinum in serial, and we don't know of any steel examples (though it's possible they exist). The only 3970s that can go crazy are with special dials, of which there are a handful. Dials in special colors or with Breguet numerals can make a big difference. The example here is actually the most expensive 3970 ever, and it sold for $339,552 last November at Christie's Hong Kong – that's less expensive than your average 2499.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Still, the 3970 is just pure Patek Philippe and while it may not be quite like one of the true vintage models in this family, its virtues can not be stressed enough.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["87d469a8-a6f8-44fb-87ba-11d091fbde40"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 5020"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["38ff8d15-239c-48a9-8d1c-f9912b349832"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the oddball. The 5020 takes the same Lemania-based caliber from the 3970, drops it into an oversized \"TV\" style case, and gives it a dial with Breguet hands and numerals. The watch was a total flop when launched in the early 1990s, and as such, production was ceased after just two years. Because of this, experts estimate fewer than 300 watches were ever made, putting it in the same league as the 1518 and 2499 in terms of rarity. For years, the 5020 languished with collectors, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/12/12/bonhams-sells-one-of-the-rarest-modern-patek-philippes-for-a.html/">until one day this happened</a>: a 5020P, only the fifth to ever come up for sale at auction, hit $338,000 at Bonhams New York.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["90eca241-ac7f-4a9c-868a-079ed84fe24c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 5020 had been steadily climbing in value for years, but this 2011 sale opened up the eyes of collectors all over the world, and now you see 5020s in gold selling for as much as what you'll see with a 5970P. Like the 3970, there isn't any particular grail 5020, but considering just an estimated 20 examples of the watch were made in platinum, we can say that a 5020P with black diamond dial is as good as it gets in this category. Still, even though the 5020 is gaining a lot of momentum with serious collectors, it is often overlooked when speaking about Patek perpetual chronographs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 5004"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5818b194-926f-4f0a-81d3-521fcb1f50a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ok, I bet some of you have been waiting for me to get to this one. You're looking at the 5004, which can be described as the 3970, but with a split-seconds chronograph. The 5004 is absolutely iconic and truly loved by Patek collectors. Still at 36 mm, but now with much greater depth due to the rattrapante mechanism placed atop the Lemania caliber, the 5004 has grown into a category of collecting all on its own. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["005ab612-dc02-4b3a-914f-f5c09329fc20"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is just something SO cool about a perpetual calendar with split-seconds chronograph and this reference is considered one of the most important of the modern era. It was launched in 1996 and the estimates say just 12 pieces were made each calendar year until <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/patek-philippe-5204-title-here-live-pics/">the in-house 5204 was introduced in 2012.</a> As mentioned in the video above, the 5004 was made in all metals, though now the most desirable is the early platinum with black dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Ultimate 5004(S)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ok, so every 5004 is the ultimate 5004. But, we can pick a few special pieces if we have to. The first ultimate 5004 is the 5004A. Yes, for those who know Patek, they know that A stands for steel. In November 2011, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/9/15/patek-releases-the-last-50-ref-5004-split-seconds-perpetuals.html/">word got out that Patek would make the last 50 5004s in a stainless steel case</a>. The collecting world went nuts. Priced at over $300,000, these steel 5004s were engraved with the owner's name on the caseback to discourage after market selling. It didn't matter, because shortly after, we began to see them appear at auction. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0efbd792-68ce-47be-947c-37b1f30d4564"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This example sold at Christie's Hong Kong for $409,000. The steel 5004 is, on paper, an exceptionally cool watch, though at the time of writing, there is some rumbling amongst the hardest of hardcore Patek collectors that, in fact, more than 50 examples were made to appease client demand. And that has pissed off a lot of people. Consider the fact that the 5004 was made for 15 years, with an average of 12 pieces per year. That's just 180 watches. Now, all of a sudden, you have have an additional 50+ watches on the market in steel? That might actually mean there are more 5004s out there in steel than any other metal!</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e2cf8080-81c8-44c0-add1-a5012779b409"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are other special 5004s out there, like those with special dials and even a few with factory bracelets. But, the 5004 to end all 5004s is the 5004T – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/hands-on-with-the-unique-patek-philippe-5004t-split-seconds-perpetual-calendar-in-titanium-sort-of/">yes, that's the unique piece in titanium that sold at Only Watch last year for $3.98 million</a>. That's more than the Clapton 2499, people.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reference 5970"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["244ba735-8d6d-456c-93e3-40b27502e132"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ah, the 5970. Some call it the best watch Patek Philippe ever made. Some describe it as perfectly proportioned. Others call it the last of the great Patek Philippes. The 5970 was introduced in 2004 and shuttered in 2011 with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/2/6/a-closer-look-at-the-patek-philippe-5270-perpetual-calendar.html/">the introduction of the in-house 5270</a>. That's a seven year production run, making it the shortest run of any Patek perpetual chrono. That, coupled with a modern 40mm case size, a dial that is balanced perfectly with the inclusion of a tachymeter scale, and a look totally different from its forefathers make the 5970 a true stand out watch. Inside the 40mm case case you have the same Lemania-based movement you'll find in both the 3970 and the 5020. But with the increased diameter, many will say the balance of the watch is superior to that of the earlier and smaller 3970.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["717ba41e-7dce-4b8d-bcbb-da8c8e5c6138"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the 5970, things are pretty cut and dry. It was made in four different metals, with the platinum model standing out high above the rest as most desirable. That said, many believe the 5970J (yellow) to be the rarest. You won't find too many dial variations on the 5970, but you will see Tiffany signatures and the occasional special order dial. The 5970 is arguably one of the safest investments in watches. Consider the fact <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://nymag.com/nymetro/urban/strategist/everything/time/10809//">that New York Magazine ran this story in 2005 questioning if the 5970G was worth the then $89,600 price tag</a>. That same watch now sells for around $145,000 on the secondary market. 5970s are as good as (if not better than) gold. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a3dd2a3c-2a4c-4116-aa84-34277cf2d9a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This 5970J with champagne dial <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/auction-news-stainless-steel-rolex-moonphase-8171-sells-for-114-million-at-christies-new-york/">brought down $353,000 last December</a>, all because of the rarity of the dial. Yes, that's a good $200,000 premium over the normal 5970J simply because of a dial color. You'll expect to pay around $130,00-$150,000 for rose, white, and yellow gold models, while you can expect to pay around $175,000 for a great platinum example. All 5970s are rising, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/watches/patek-philippe-a-fine-large-and-rare-5674779-details.aspx?from=salesummary&intObjectID=5674779&sid=20cbb0fb-a8fe-4403-8a13-75e55df382fa\%22>a platinum watch hit $217,000 in May of last year</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Ultimate 5970"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Is there an ultimate 5970? Again, I would say all 5970s are worthy of grail status, but there isn't a steel 5970 or a titanium watch to speak of. I would say the most interesting 5970 that the collecting world knows of – and we know very, very little about it – belongs to our old friend from the 2499 section, Mr. Eric Clapton. There are photos of Clapton taken at the 2011 Italian Grand Prix wearing what appears to be a white metal 5970 with Breguet numerals. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bea581ee-b129-42f1-85ff-548ef0478242"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One can barely make out the face of the watch, but it is clearly a 5970 and clearly not a production dial. You can see the watch a little better <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://patekwatch.blogspot.com/2011/05/patek-philippe-coolness-eric-clapton.html/">here.
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Regardless, the 5970 remains the pinnacle of modern watch collecting and it will be where I conclude this journey into perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe. I will not go into the in-house 5270 and 5204 because they are still being made, thus the story has yet to really be formed on these watches. Until then, I hope you've enjoyed our first Reference Points feature article. We'll be back soon with round two.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8e228491-33b2-47eb-ade8-20fa91b9c24c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Special Thanks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We like to extend a special thanks to Michael Safdie and Madison Time for allowing us to use their watches in the filming and production of this feature story. All watches are currently available for purchase at this incredible Upper East Side store. You can see more on the shop <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/video-introducing-madison-fine-time-new-yorks/">here.
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Madison Time</p>\n<p>212-355-8200 / <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/\"mailto: VIP@MadisonTimeWatches.com/">Email / <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.madisontimewatches.com//">Website
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Production numbers, dates, and series definitions are all estimates based on previous research done by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://christies.com//">Christie's, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://antiquorum.com/home//">Antiquorum, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sothebys.com/en.html/">Sotheby's, and <a href=\"http://www.bonhams.com/\">Bonhams.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"43ef0133-990f-4629-99f0-0923c5cd1f3e","container_id":2234,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2234/ref_pts_safdie_2880.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-02-20T20:30:07.274-05:00","updated_at":"2017-04-22T17:01:21.084-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/article/hero_image/2234/ref_pts_safdie_2880.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":17,"slug":"reference_points","name":"Reference Points","description":"Extensive historical research on the lineage of important vintage watches.","sort_order":9,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.165-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.490-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-entire-lineage-of-patek-philippe-perpetual","full_title":"Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs","tags":[]}],"currentArticleId":2196}">